We have arrived, again!

In case we didn’t make this clear two weeks ago, traveling with three young kids is extremely challenging. We had a difficult day of driving in an overstuffed rental car filled with kids and luggage (and kids sitting on luggage). We made it to Bern, Switzerland and stayed one night in a crowded hotel room with one kid on the floor, and one two-year-old that doesn’t know how to fall asleep without his pack-and-play (which was wrapped in several layers of plastic with several other items and strapped to the top of the car — oops). No one got much sleep, tempers flared, and I wondered several times, “why are we doing this again?”

However, the next day, we drove to our new home in the town of Münsingen. After going through everything with our landlord, a 32-year ex-pat from Connecticut, we were even more overwhelmed and exhausted. But, we had arrived!

There are several things about the house that are fantastic. The yard is a beautiful, relaxing space surrounded by lush greenery, flower gardens, a koi pond with a bridge, candle-lit patio, two fire pits, a bench swing, a ping pong table, fresh raspberries and black berries, and a vegetable garden that has already been planted with lettuce, beans, tomatoes, rhubarb, radishes, and peppers. It will be a bit of work to maintain, but we love spending time and eating meals out there. The house also has plenty of space, including a guest suite with a room and bathroom that closes off from the rest of the house. So, if anyone is thinking about visiting us, come on over!

Also, our neighborhood is great. We are near a creek and in walking distance from everything we need. There are lots of kids here, and Emily and James immediately befriended a family across the street. We were fortunate to arrive on August 1st, which is Swiss National Day. The first night, though we were too exhausted to try to go to the celebrations in the city of Bern, we learned that the tradition for most Swiss families involves setting of lots of fireworks in the streets. We joined the families outside our house where the kids all had a blast setting off over a hundred fireworks of all sizes. The next day, the kids played together again, and we all went to the local swimming pool complex in the afternoon. Even though it has only been a couple of days, we love our new home. Already the challenges of getting here seem like a minor hurdle compared to the incredible experiences ahead of us.

NOTE: No pictures this time. We won’t have real internet access until we get our residence permit, which may take a while (I’m sitting in a Swisscom store right now). But we’ll post when we can.

The Merry Wanderers

Barley Field

Emily and James and I set out this morning on a mission. We were on day three of our transportation shortage, and rations were starting to run low. I decided to ask Emily and James if they were up for the challenge of the 8 kilometer round trip walk through the Altmühl Forest, down into the valley, and back up to make a trip to the nearest grocery store. As usual with youth, what they lacked in comprehension, they made up for in enthusiasm. Regardless, the walk turned out to be an extremely beautiful walk through forest, along fields of corn, hay, and barley, and down through a wooded river valley. Complaints were few, but questions were plentiful.

Barley Field

While on our walk, not more than a kilometer from home, we stopped at the side of a local farmer’s field to examine the grain. My experience with homebrewing helped me realize it was a field of 2-row barley. This particular type of barley is commonly used as a base malt when brewing German beer, but it can also be used for other purposes. We each grabbed a stalk of nearly ready grain, and would pick seeds and munch on them as we walked.

2-row and 6-row barleyOn our way back from Riedenburg, we walked by another field that was growing 6-row barley. This kind is particularly suited for animal feed, and we could see why. The kids noticed the seeds were more plump, softer, and had more of a flavor to them. We enjoyed our walk, our snack, and four hours later, we found ourselves back home with a backpack and two bags full of groceries.

I’m terribly proud of those two kids for making that whole journey with me, but I am even more amazed at the incredible surge of energy they seemed to have when they got home. They started running around, wrestling each other, and generally wreaking havoc. It was a good opportunity to send them over to the spielplatz to burn off more steam. We’ll see how they sleep tonight.

Bayerischer Weißwurst

One of the more surprising findings for me on this trip has been James’ growing love of Bavarian White Sausage, or Bayerischer Weißwurst (pronounced VICE-vurst). Almost every time we go out for lunch, he asks if they have it, and will easily take down two of these sausages without batting an eye. Of course he always has to share with his little brother, Henry, who loves it, too.

Speisen_Weisswurst_01_02Weißwurst is a mild-flavored sausage that, so I’ve heard, is one of the first sausages that Bavarians will feed to young children because of its mild taste. I’m not sure, but I think it’s mostly veal and pork with very few seasonings. And it has as distinct white color which gives its name. It is mostly a morning food, not to be eaten after noon. It is usually served with a pretzel and a Weißbeer (for the adults, anyway).

But more interesting is that there is clearly a right way, and a wrong way, to eat this particular sausage. And not only is the right way the socially approved way, but it may ensure that you actually enjoy the sausage, rather than hate it, like I originally did.

weisswurst-mit-laugenbrezel-und-senfThe issue is the sausage casing. Unlike the brats and hot dogs that we are used to in America, Weißwurst has a tough, thick casing that is unpleasant to eat, and tough to chew (though some Bavarians do eat it this way, it is not the norm). The casing should be peeled off, by hand, and the meat eaten with sweet mustard (preferably “Händelmaier’s süßer Hausmachersenf“) using only your fingers, no fork. Alternatively, a hole in the casing can be made at one end, and the meat “sucked out” through the hole.

When I visited Germany right out of college with my friend, Will. I remember sitting in the Marienplatz in old town Munich and ordering a weißwurst for lunch since I had never had one before. Not knowing much about it, other than it looked like a white brat, I starting cutting it with a knife and fork, thinking that this particular dining establishement had messed up the sausage since the skin was so tough. I choked down half of the sausage before I couldn’t stand eating it anymore (solely because of the skin) and thought it was a big bust. I probably offended everyone around me with my clear breach of weißwurst etiquette.

But now, I have to admit, James is right. Bayerischer Weißwurst is pretty darn good, once you know how to eat it. While it is not common to find in the U.S., there is a great Bavarian sausage maker outside of Madison who makes traditional weißwurst, as well as other traditional German foods. You can check out their website here. And they ship anywhere in the U.S.!

And if you want to learn more, or just like watching videos of moderately goofy Germans who don’t speak terribly good english, check out the video below of Mr. Perkins showing you how to prepare and eat, weißwurst. Prost!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cW-J84hYMfc